Number of skeins of yarn to buy and the project you can knit


Ever looked at hand dyed yarn and drool over the prettiness of it? The way the colors are painted over the luscious wool, the small halo that entices you, and the squishiness that makes you go ‘awwwww’.

Then you are look at them and wonder how many you should buy. What’s a good number to keep? What can I make if I want to buy one to try?

For experienced knitters, they will most likely know how to measure the yarn needed for certain projects and pair the colors/texture. But for beginners, it will most probably be a big question mark — or at least that was how i felt when i tried to buy my first hand dyed yarn.

In this post, i will be doing a simple guide on how many skeins is needed for basic functional items like (summer) tops. I’ll also try my best to cover both crochet and knitting.

Before we dive deeper into the numbers, I’ll summarise the general meterage you will need to make a top.

Sleeveless tops: ~1 to 2 skeins (400m – 800m)
Short-sleeve tops: ~2 skeins (800m)
Long-sleeve pullover/sweaters: 3-4 skeins (1200m – 1600m)
Shawlette/cowl: 1 skein
Small shawl: 1 skein
Big Shawls: 5 skeins (2000m) or 1 lace weight (700m)

CROCHET (based on cotton):
Short cardigans: ~1000m minimally
Long Cardigans: ~2000m minimally
Big Shawls: ~1000m-1600m (fingering weight)
Tops: ~1500m
Pouch: ~400m
Cowl: ~400m

Are you able to get a clearer understanding on what to make with the meterage? I often get questions from crocheters what we can make with X amount of yarn. Hope this helps!

Next! We move on to looking at specific numbers of yarn and the projects we can make.


Characteristics: 380m – 400m , fingering/sport or 700m, lace

Rarely can we make something functional and useful with one skein. I’m talking about Fingering or DK weight yarn. However, there are projects that you can make with one skein!


  • Sleeveless tops
  • bralette
  • cowl
  • shawlette


To make something decent with fingering weight, we have to look for minimally 100g/400m for size XS/S (if you’re lucky you get M!).
Examples on ravelry:



Characteristics: 760m – 850m, fingering/sport, or projects that requires about 760m – 850m of yarn

Two skein projects gives you a bigger leeway to make more things.

  • Lacey pullovers
  • Summer tops

For two skeins project we are looking at finished objects with about 750m – 800m.


In addition to those mentioned in ‘one skein’,


And more weights to play



Characteristics: 1200m fingering, or projects that requires more than 1000m – 1200m of yarn

Once we hit three or more skeins, making wearables is flexible and involves some form of colorwork (fair isle or stranded). Three skeins is usually a good gauge for you to make most garments and if you have a hard time deciding what yarn to buy, just buy 3! it’s a magic number 🙂

Fingering weight


Even after giving you an idea of what you can make, i’m pretty sure you will wonder if there’s a “magic number” to buy for that very compulsive shopaholic reason.

We are yarn hoarders. We love yummy squishy yarn. We want to hide it from our spouse, but we also want to know how much to buy so we don’t regret!


For crochet, I will always buy the color in a pair unless i’m very sure what i want to make. I’m an impulsive buyer, so I will always have a backup plan if i cannot find a project for it.

Let me give you an example.

  • If you purchase 2x 50g 4ply yarn, u can pick up knitting along the way and knit a pair of socks (provided it has wool).
  • if you purchase any weight with 2 balls, most likely you are able to make a cowl or a pouch.

What’s the worse that could happen? Mash the colors!


For knitting, I personally feel it depends heavily on the weight.

  • One fingering skein can help you with any colorwork, or fades, or even a section in the shawl!
  • Two sport weight skein can make a simple top (i always take Whitehorse as a gauge! Or you are guaranteed to make Tegna/Ranunculus)
  • Three fingering weight gives you enough yarn to make a simple raglan sweater!
  • Any 5 fingering weight can make a shawl and DK weight can give you a sweater

The magic number to buy yarn is purely up to you! Remember that these are hand dyed yarn and they come in very small limited batches. I’m expecting you to understand why you need to buy yarn with the same dye lot and it applies for the very same reason. No hand dyed yarn is the same, so choose and plan wisely — they make your wallet broke.

I hope my mini guide helps you with choosing of yarn. Let me know if this helps!

Quick project with Daiso yarn – Bee in the Garden Pouch pattern

It’s another slow day at work it’s February and my interns are leaving. I’ve been feeling a little bit guilty about not giving them Christmas present and also since it’s been awhile I last crochet, I thought why not take this chance to do something for them.

They were girls and I thought maybe something small, quick, and functional would be best. Or at least make something that even I will use.

I thought of a mini pouch and I decided to make a marled version with lace yarn. I made an impromptu trip to Daiso and picked whatever that was left; yellow, green… Last black and orange lace #20. Decided to match the colors according to the image and yup, pretty much how accidents happen haha.

I’ve always preferred less conventional color matching, more weird color combination.

If you prefer single solid colors, go ahead and make your favorite pouch.

I took about an hour to finish.. I’ll say it will take about 2-3 hours for a beginner? It’s fairly easy and works fast with worsted weight yarn!

Bee in the garden pouch

: : : : THINGS YOU NEED : : : :

Hook size:
(Or to your liking)

Yarn needed:
approx. 83m worsted/12ply yarn

*marled version in sample piece uses:
— Base:
Col A (yellow):
1 x daiso amigurumi acrylic (dk) – 83m
Col B (black):
1x daiso lace #20 – 80m

— Body:
Col C (green):
1x daiso amigurumi acrylic (dk) – 83m
Col D (orange):
1 x daiso lace #20 – 80m

(Optional to follow)
4 x 4 cm
7 dc sts x 3 rows

ch – chain stitch
dc – double crochet
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch


Customize your color!
Any 2 colors will make a cute color blocking project. Play around with different type of yarn to create a unique look for your pouch!

Customize your size!
This pattern works with odd number of stitches.
You start your base with an even number and increase accordingly. When you are ready to build your body, add one stitch to the last row to get odd number of stitches.


1. Building the base

Start the base with your first set of colors.
If you are using a single color for this project, you can ignore the areas where we cut yarn.

*Note: whenever we start with ch2, it does not count as a stitch.

With magic circle, ch2 (does not count as a stitch), crochet 8dc into circle. Sl st into first dc. (8 dc + ch2)

Row 1:
ch2, 2dc in the same stitch (first dc of the previous row). 2dc in each remaining stitch, sl st into first dc. (16dc + ch2)

Row 2:
Ch2, 1dc in the same stitch (first dc of the previous row), 2dc in the second stitch. *1dc in the next stitch, 2dc in the following stitch*. Repeat * till the last stitch. Sl st into first dc. (24dc + ch2)

Row 3:
Ch2, 1dc in the same stitch (first dc of the previous row), 1dc in the second stitch. 2dc in the third stitch. *1dc in the next stitch, 1dc in the next stitch, 2dc in the following stitch*. Repeat * till the last stitch. Sl st into first dc. (32dc + ch2)

Row 4:
Ch2, 1dc in the same stitch (first dc of the previous row), 1dc in the second stitch. 1dc in the third stitch. 2dc in the fourth stitch. *1dc in the next stitch, 1dc in the next stitch, 1dc in the next stitch, 2dc in the following stitch*. Repeat * till 4 stitches remaining.
With remaining 4 stitches, 1dc in the first stitch, 1dc in the next stitch, 2dc in the second last stitch, 2dc in the last stitch. Sl st into first dc. (41dc + ch2)

Row 5-6 (beginning of body with base color):
Ch2, 1dc in the same stitch, 1dc in the remaining stitches. Sl stich into first dc. (41dc + ch2).

Cut yarn to change color. Weave in ends.

2. Building the body

Continue the body with your second set of colors.
If you are using are single color for this project, you can ignore the areas where we cut yarn.

*Note: whenever we start with ch2, it does not count as a stitch.

Row 7 – 11:
Ch2, 1dc in the same stitch, 1dc in the remaining stitches. Sl stich into first dc. (41dc + ch2).

Row 12:
To work on this row, make sure you have odd number of stitches. In this case, we will have 41 dc). We are starting this row with a double crochet.
1dc into the same stitch (count as a stitch). Ch1. *skip the next stitch, 1dc into the next stitch, ch1* Repeat * until second last stitch. The last stitch should not contain any stitches (count as skipped stitch). Sl st into first dc. (21dc, 21ch)

Row 13:
1dc into the same stitch (count as a stitch). 1dc into chain space. *1dc in the next dc, 1dc into chain space* Repeat * to the end (42 stitches)

Row 14:
Ch1 (does not count as a stitch), 1sc first dc, 1sc in each dc to the end. Sl st into first sc. (42sc + ch1)

Cut yarn and weave in the ends.

3. Building the strap

Start the chain with your first set of colors.
If you are using are single color for this project, you can ignore the areas where we cut yarn.

chain your yarn until approximately 50cm. Double knot both ends, cut yarn near the knots.

Weave in all remaining ends.


Share with me your end projects on Instagram with #beegardenpouch

Japan crochet hooks comparison: Clover Amour/Amure vs Clover soft touch vs Tulip Pink Etimo vs Daiso crochet hooks

Every crocheter will always look for the best hooks that suits their palm. There are many brands out there, but which hook is really the best?

I have the chance to purchase Clover’s Amour/Amure and Soft Touch, and Tulip’s Pink Etimo on Amazon prime in Singapore. I thought why not do a comparison since Japanese hooks are pretty popular!

In Singapore, when we want cheap, we go to Daiso. Daiso sells hooks that are good enough for your daily yarn projects. If you want a more choices, we visit Spotlight or Golden Dragon. But to what extend are the hooks really your type if you can’t try them?

For this review, I will be covering mainly six areas:

  • Hook structure
  • Hand comfort
  • Grip comfort
  • Smoothness
  • Price
  • Availability

Before I begin, you might ask “What’s the difference between Clover Amour and Clover Amure?”


Clover Amour is sold by Clover USA, while Clover Amure is sold by Clover Japan. The only difference between both sets, is the color representing the sizes (e.g Clover USA purple hooks is 4.0mm while Amure is blue for 4.0mm). Another noticeable difference will be the number of hooks in a set. Clover Amour has 10, while Clover Amure is sold in 8. Price differs largely different where Clover Amour is more affordable. But the best thing, both sets are MADE IN JAPAN!

*Note: Clover Amour will be used throughout the comparison. They are the same as Clover Amure.

Hook Structure

Amour and Tulip have equal shaft length, however Soft Touch has a shorter shaft length.

Hand and grip comfort

Tulip has a bigger thumb pad followed by Clover amour. Soft Touch thumbpad is flat with a smaller rubber grip. Daiso’s hook is pretty much similar to clover amour except it’s less rubbery, more plastic-y.

I prefer tulip and amour’s grip over the other 2 as they both have longer hand shaft and the rubber is comfortable to hold. Soft Touch is too flat for my liking and it’s better for pencil holder. Daiso is hard plastic.


Clover and Tulip hooks glide smoothly because of how the Japanese companies coat their aluminum. It’s so slick and it helps you go fast! Sadly, daiso’s hook requires a bit more conditioning before you can start gliding fast.


If we were to compare pricing (based on AMAZON as of 7 February 2018):


  • Clover amour set- sgd55
  • Tulip Pink Etimo candy set – $85.20
  • Clover soft touch – sgd49.20


Singapore: With Prime Now Singapore mobile app, buying crochet hooks have been so much easier as compared to before. Not sponsored by the company, Clover and Etimo is priced much cheaper to retail stores. Daiso hooks on the other hand are only found in Daiso (duh! But for our foreign friends, Daiso is a $2 shop where you can find almost ANYTHING at a cheap price.)

Assuming you can’t find it on Prime Now because it is sold out during the recent sale, you can find Clover and Etimo at Golden Dragon @ Chinatown, Elsie’s departmental store @ Ang Mo Kio. Retail shops tend to be pricier so be prepared to pay more.

What about singles? You can find a range of single clover amour/soft touch crochet hooks at Golden Dragon. Etimo you will have to get it from Amazon.

Do note that Daiso hooks is loosely sold, does not come in sets!

Outside of Singapore: Clover and Etimo are easily available on Amazon. Check with your local yarn stores, i’m sure if they have Japanese yarn, they will have Japanese hooks.

Let me know what you prefer!

Furls Streamline vs Handmade Wood vs Clover Amour Review

I received my hooks on Thursday and I tried on yarn for 2 days before I did a review.

I ordered their limited edition pink ivory hook as well as rosewood streamline hook.

Fyi, im a knife holder and I roll the hook between my thumb and index finger when I crochet.


Grip comfort:

Both about the same but pink ivory feels more solid, streamline is light. Streamline has a longer handle and is light. Pink Ivory is slightly shorter, but longer than clover amour. Wood is heavier.

Overall: 5/5 for streamline, 4.5/5 for handmade wood

Hooking comfort:

I prefer streamline series as it feels more smooth. We have to relearn when using furls because of the ergonomic shape and the transition from a clover hook to furl streamline is faster. However, I feel for the handmade wood series, the head of the hook tends to be caught in the yarn and I end up spending more time redoing my stitches. I’m not sure if my pink ivory is a defect as I don’t enjoy it as much as what the community raved. Also, since it is wood, it does not glide as fast as a metal hook. So my scoring does not include the speed of gliding.

Overall: 4/5 for streamline, 3/5 for handmade.

Actual color vs online color:

A bit of a debate here as each hook is carved from different wood so you will not expect to be the same. however, it is a bit disappointing when the pink ivory hook does not look pink like their website, and my rosewood is shades darker than what we see. Hopefully the wood changes color gradually.

Overall: 2/5 for streamline, 4/5 for handmade

Value for money:

I rarely used wooden hooks as I like to go fast, I thought the streamline hook glides rather smoothly for a wooden hook. Streamline cost about USD16 to USD19 but as one of the lower end wooden hook, I thought it is worth the money for the grip and total hook length. On the other hand, the pink ivory cost a whooping USD110 and I don’t feel as satisfied as my streamline hook. I’m honestly hoping that my pink ivory is slightly defective so I will have the reason to tell myself that there is a problem , hahahaha.

Overall: streamline wins!

Hand painful factor:

can’t really say since I’m relearning how to use the hook.

After 2 days, I’m mildly sad that I prefer the streamline over my pink ivory. Although the ergonomic shape of handmade hooks proves way prettier, save your money on the streamline series!

ETA: after additional 2 more days (4 days) I felt pain. I don’t know why, but the area below my thumb hurts. Maybe because I am not used to the ergonomic shape of the hook that made my palm strained. I have set aside my hooks because of that. Hopefully, one day I’ll pick up again.

Overall: Clover wins (LOL!)


Between both Furls hook, I really prefer the streamline hook and don’t mind getting the other sizes. Maybe I should buy Odyssey range to try out too (but I don’t like how it is heavy).

Lastly, a final tip from me.

If you intend to get Furls streamline hook, get the camwood for streamline to see your colored yarn better. This is because you cannot guarantee that the rosewood you get is as light as the photo. I had trouble looking for my stitches when I used a black thread. Camwood will be a better choice. Also, take good care as the neck near the head is very fragile.



Thank you for reading my personal review. Please note that this is not a sponsored post and not throwing shade on Furls. My review is for a local community where we spend our time sharing tools and yarn and one of our biggest concern was Furls Vs Clover. Please take my review with a pinch of salt. Nonetheless do try out Furls if you can as the wood is solid!

As what Singaporeans will say, the wood damn shiok ah!


November is the beginning of our wintery weather for many parts of the world. Meanwhile on sunny Singapore, it begins to pour.

On days where I felt like travelling out of here to somewhere cold and far, I dream of Japan – a land I long to go. Then came a good news where I’ll be travelling to Tokyo this December. On my itinerary, I will be visiting Mount Fuji. Having low tolerance towards the wintery cold, I decided to pick up my needles to make myself a thick warm scarf to keep myself warm. However, my only worry was it being too heavy.

I set out to spotlight and got myself 2 skeins of Lion Brand’s Wool Ease Thick & Quick Stripes in Moonlight and Hudson Bay.

Naturally, the next step will be to look for patterns on Ravelry. An issue I faced with this yarn, I cannot find a suitable pattern to bring out the best of the yarn. Moonlight and Hudson Bay are beautifully striped yarn that knits up well on its own and it is a challenge trying to look for a suitable design. I decided to pick up my needles and freestyle-d.


The outcome of this design brought out the simplicity in the stripes yet, hides its subtle textured appearance among the stripes. I thought it was the best for beginners.

Have a go and let me know how you feel!

Disclaimer: As this is a simple scarf with basic stitches, there might be similar patterns out there. Kindly note that I have never seen those (I couldn’t find) and have no intention to plagiarised any knitted work. If my piece irks you, kindly let me know.

Another Woolly Scarf

Level of difficulty: Beginner/Easy
Craft: Knitting
Techniques needed: Knit and Purl

Materials Needed:


2 skeins of Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick yarn / 195meters Super bulky yarn (5-6wpi)
10mm knitting needle (either straight or circular)
Darning needle
Scissors (to cut)
Stitch marker (if you want to stop your work)

Tension: 4″x4″ – 10 stitches across, 11 rows (tension is not important in this pattern)
Final length: 15CM X 220cm

– Pattern will require even stitch + 1 extra stitch = total must be odd stitches.
– Scarf will curl as you knit.
– 1 skein can make a cowl.
– 1st stitch is always a slip stitch knit wise.
– Every row is 17 stitches.

Kids/Teen – 15 stitches
Teen/Female – 17 stitches throughout
Male – 19 or 21 (depending on how chunky)

Sl st – slip stitch, RS – right side, WS – wrong side

Scarf Pattern:

Cast On 17 stitches.


Row 1: Knit across. Total 17 stitches.

Row 2: Sl st (knit wise), knit across. 16 knit stitch + 1 slip stitch. Total 17 stitches.
Row 3: sl st (purl wise), purl across. 16 purl stitch + 1 slip stitch. Total 17 stitches.
Row 4 – Row 20: Repeat Row 2 and Row 3. (10 sets of stocking stitch). Ending with WS.

Row 21: Starting on RS (odd row), sl st (knit wise), knit and purl (we are doing seed stitch, video aid below). 16 seed stitch + 1 slip stitch. Total 17 stitches.


For beginners: This is not my video. How to do a knit and purl on the same row, refer to this video:

* Do not do P1, K1. We start our seed stitch with a slip stitch to give a cleaner edge.

Row 22 – Row 28: Starting on WS (even row), Repeat row 21. Total of 4 bumps on each side. Ending with WS on every even row.
Row 29 – desired length: Repeat row 2 to row 28. Stop at Row 20 (stocking stitch) when you have reached your desired length. My scarf have 9 sets of stocking stitch, 8 sets of seed stitch.


Ready to Cast Off?
You will end off at stocking stitch (Row 20).
Knit 2* rows. Cast Off.
(* Depending on the ridges seen on the RS where you started initially. If you have 2 bumps, knit 2 rows. If you have one bump, knit 1 row. Ultimately, we are trying to match the beginning).

You may choose to do wet blocking or steam blocking.

I steam blocked my scarf. Set your iron to wool setting and maximum steam. Gently place and iron down the sides of the scarf. DO NOT PRESS.

What to do with the remaining ball:
I have about 10 % yarn left and if you want, you can add frills to the end.


HOW IT LOOKS LIKE WHEN WORN (with one wrap):


If you think it’s too long, you can double wrap:


For men, you can up the number of casting on stitches to 19 or 21:

Lastly, if you could, do hashtag your scarf with:
#anotherwoollyscarf #thesinglishknitter

Yarnbombing SG River


Last week I decided I needed to get out of my comfy zone to look for people who does crochet and knitting in Singapore. I’ve been thinking awhile now, how to reach these people, and I managed to meet One Maker Group and one of them introduced me to Mona and team. I reached out to their facebook and discovered this amazing and upcoming project for Singapore River Festival. A total of 9 trees will be yarnbombed with all our squares in 3 main colors. Yippee!!

The first meetup for this event was held last week and I had event in school so I gave it a miss. But today I made the effort to look for the group.

Before I opened the door. I was nervous as hell… but then… friendly people welcome me and seriously, it felt like HOME!


Mona greeted me warmly and introduced the other participants involved in this event. I was told to pick the yarn to work on my pieces. Any pattern i want as long as it was 12 inch by 12 inch and in its own shade. I decided with red and tadah! My square below:

I have this huge love for red yarn and particularly bobble stitch. I started out with double crochets and I thought why not add some bobbles since this yarnbombing will allow public to feel the yarn.

I will leave this pattern here for anyone who wishes to do a 12 inch by 12 inch granny (?) bobble square.

Pattern for square above

Materials used:
100% acrylic 4 seasons marvel 8ply
4mm hook
3 different colored yarn

** note: this pattern may not give the same tension as yours

Start with 40 chains.

Row 1: With color A, chain 3, double crochet into the chains (total 39 double crochet, 1 ch3).
Row 2 -3: repeat row1.

Row4 – 6: With Color B, single crochet into stitches.
Row 7: single crochet ino 4-6 stitches, *dc5tog, ch1, sc another 4-5 stitches. Repeat * until you reach the end of the row.
Row8-9: ch1, sc into stitches

Row10 – 12: With Color C, single crochet into stitches.
Row 13: single crochet ino 4-6 stitches, *dc5tog, ch1, sc another 4-5 stitches. Repeat * until you reach the end of the row.
Row14-15: ch1, sc into stitches

Row 16-33: With Color A , repeat Row 4 – 9.

Row 34 to 39: With Color C, repeat row 10 – 15

Row 40 – 45: With Color B, repeat row 4 – 9

Row 46 – 48: With Color A, repeat  Row 1- 3.

Basic Granny Square Pattern

One of the very basic granny square pattern available on the internet is this:

It may look simple, but it does wonder if you join them together; Baby blanket, a crop top, dress, cushion cover, rug…

During my basic crochet workshop held in university, I have covered this pattern and I will be providing patterns in text.

Materials used:
50g DK/Weight 3 100% Acrylic yarn (8ply yarn)
4mm Crochet Hook
*You may use whichever weight of yarn as long as you follow the recommended hook on the yarn label. Check out ‘Matching yarn type with the right hook‘ if you need help with matching.

Abbreviations used (US Terms):
ch – chain
sl – slip stitch
dc – double crochet

Things to take note:
Ch3 will give you the height of a double crochet stitch.


Begin with a slip stitch on your crochet hook.


Making the foundation chain. Chain (ch) 6. Once you are done, slip stitch into the 6th chain from the hook (first chain from the initial knot).


Row 1: Ch3, 3 dc, ch3. This will give you the first quarter of the square. 

Continue, *(4dc, ch3). This will give you the second quarter, which makes it half the square. Repeat the set in * two more times and you will see this:

Slip stitch to the top of the ch3 stitch and you are done with the first row!
Total stitch for first row: 24 stitches.

Row2: Start with ch3. Work on 3 dc on the top of each dc stitch done during the previous round (you will have 3 stitches).

2 dc into the ch3 space done on the previous round, ch3, 2dc into ch3 space again.

*(6dc, ch3,2dc), repeat from the set in * for another 3 times.

Slip stitch into the top of the ch3 stitch and you are done with the second row!
Total stitch for second row: 40 stitches.

We have covered 2 rows during our workshop, but if you wish to continue more rows,
1. add 4 dc to the corners (2dc, ch3, 2dc)
2. work on dc to the top of the previous dc stitch
3. always begin the row with ch3 to match the height of dc

Novice guide: Matching yarn weight/size with the right hook/needle

One of the many things novice faces when trying to start a project is understanding how to buy the right yarn weight (or you may call it size).

Coming from a country where we are very limited by resources and have to rely heavily on exports, Crocheting is a very underrated hobby and it is extremely difficult for me to find help (or maybe I am not trying hard enough).

There are times when I read crochet pattern books from UK and i get clueless when it comes to description of yarn.. DK yarn, worsted yarn, chunky yarn… and to me they are very vague terms.

Beginner crocheters in Singapore who starts out alone will make their first pitstop at Spotlight or Daiso to get their starter kit and when you walk through the aisle(s) of yarn, I’m sure one or more questions will pop into your head:

  1. How do I know which hook to buy for which yarn
  2. 4ply? 8ply? So which ply falls under which yarn number
  3. Uh… I cant read Japanese.. how do I know medium thick uses which size
  4. So DK and worsted is how many ply?

Spotlight yarns uses Australia terminology. Most patterns you googled online will tell you something different from the labels you see on yarn labels at Spotlight. The next thing to do is google some yarn chart so you know how to buy yarn.. but you might be stumped again.

This is probably the most commonly seen chart if you google for yarn “size”

Yarn-Weights1(source: petalstopicots)

Back when I was a novice at this craft, I got confused when I look at the chart.

I asked myself:

  • HOW am I supposed to know which plys fit under which category?
  • HOW am I supposed to know what is Double Knitting equivalent?

I chance upon an article by HeartStrings FiberArts’s Patterns by Yarn Weight and thought it might be helpful for confused people like me.

I did my own chart…

I excluded Japanese terminology because at the point of writing this post, I have yet to compile Japanese sizes into the chart. I will be updating this chart soon. Meanwhile, a simple version for you (feel free to correct me if i am wrong):

YARNWEIGHT(Please credit #thesinglishknitter if you are using this image)
*Note: Recommended Hook is my own suggestion.

I personally do not like the ply system as it’s a different scale again when you work with german unplied yarn. 4ply unplied yarn is actually equivalent to DK weight.

It takes quite a bit of kungfu to feel and know immediately what size hook you will need for a crochet project. Then again, knitting is an entirely different scale again (but most of the time it’s similar).

Recommended Hook as listed in my chart is based on my experience after trial and error. Actually, most of the time the recommended needle size will be on the ball band. If you are not comfortable, always follow what is stated on your ball band.

At the end of the day, the charts you google are just guides to help you to start a project.

What do you think? Continue reading

First blog post

This is the virgin post of BALLOOPII!

I am a crazy craft lady who simply adores the beauty of lace crochet. I enjoy getting my hands dirty for crafting. At the same time, Im geeky and I enjoy tinkering.

The purpose of starting a blog post is because i want to bring about new change to the crochet community by introducing simple technology into what i love.

Join in my journey!